Winter trekking
Date: 16 Jul 2002, The Press, Christchurch, page B8
Caption: Above: Hoar frost in an alpine landscape. Right: If you follow the leader and follow the rules, winter tramping can be a special pleasure.

Head into the mountains for a trek through the beautiful winter snowscape, by all means, writes PAT BARRETT, but make sure you follow certain procedures to ensure your trek is safe and successful.

With winter well under way and the promise of more cold, wet weather to come with short days and long, black nights you may well ask: why go into the outdoors at all, at this time?

Many head for the ski-fields to partake in that traditional winter pastime, and some venture further afield to the glaciers for ski-touring amid the grandeur of the Southern Alps.

But what about a winter trek? The mountains and valleys at this time of year are spectacular places to visit, with their covering of snow thick on the tops and down into valleys, where frost crystals dance in the sunlight as the low-angled winter sun strikes the riverbeds.

There are many options for winter trekking, from day trips to multi-day tramps in the hills, but there are as many considerations to ponder before you venture into the snow. First, you must decide what sort of excursion you want, and from this will flow a list of considerations, as there is, no doubt, a more serious nature to tramping during the winter.

If you plan an overnight trek to a valley hut sited below the bushline, which does not entail a high pass crossing, then your task is simplified. All you need consider is the distance involved, whether the access road is passable, and if there is likely to be significant snow on the valley floor which may slow your progress.

Icy tracks will need some care and extra warm clothing should be carried (details later). The availability of wood at your destination should also be taken into account.

Other than this and given good weather, you have set yourself up for an enjoyable experience amid the beauty of nature under her winter cloak. This is an experience to be relished, with a fire roaring, a brew under way, a good book to hand, and the solitude of winter.

Treks that involve transalpine routes and sorties above the bushline are very demanding, and considerably hazardous. Consider the following:

1. Don't overcommit yourself or your party. Unless you are very experienced at winter travel on the tops and know the conditions, it is best to limit yourself to a brief foray above the bushline, returning via the same route, once you have reached the ridge top for the view and the snow. When you have completed several such trips, during winter, you will begin to get a feel for the snow conditions and how you perform in the cold.
2. There is no substitute for experience. You just have to get out there and do it, bearing point one in mind always. Go on a tramping club alpine course and learn the basics from those who have spent years in the hills in all seasons. They cover such things as ice-axe and crampon use, snow conditions, avalanche awareness and how to avoid them, and what to do if caught in one. Your local library should have a list of the various outdoor clubs.
   • Remember that winter trips nearly always take longer to complete and that familiar tramp you've done many times in summer is a different proposition under winter snow when the days are much shorter.
   • Always be prepared to turn back. You will have many more winter failures than summer ones. But in effect they are not really failures, just part of building your experience.
   • Never go alone and always leave written directions regarding your destination and time of return with someone responsible at home.
3. Weather and snow conditions. As your winter trekking experience grows you will also develop a degree of weather sense and the ability to judge what the snow conditions are likely to be in a chosen area. This is also obtained through careful observation of the prevailing weather pattern over the winter months and the levels of snowfall and accumulation. Keep an eye on the newspaper for reports of heavy snowfalls, road closures, and ski-field reports, and speak to other outdoor enthusiasts about their last trip. DOC also provides information.
   • As you become familiar with your local area you will begin to find that there are often windows of opportunity to get onto the tops even in the dead of winter. Though it will take some commitment. But beware of faces and basins, particularly lee slopes, after a storm and indeed all winter. They can present a major avalanche hazard and are best avoided.
4. Be flexible. Your painstakingly planned winter weekend adventure could be blown away by Friday's southerly front which dumps a metre of snow and closes the alpine highways. However, you may still be able to trudge into that valley hut and enjoy a weekend away in the fantastic aftermath of a major snowfall, and collect some great photos as well.
5. Clothing and equipment. The basics of clothing can be summed up in two words: stay warm.
   • You will need extra warm clothing which includes: polypropylene or woollen tops and pants (several layers are best), a warm bushshirt or thermofleece jacket, spare socks, woolly hat, mitts and overgloves, rain parka and overtrousers, a winter- weight sleeping bag, first aid kit, camp shoes (for changing out of wet boots), a good torch, and candles.
   • Good leather boots are essential for snow conditions, and especially if you plan to wear crampons, don't try them on the lightweight varieties. Leather boots will also keep your feet warmer.
   • A primus cooker will be essential if you are camping or hutting above the bushline, as is a thermarest insulation mat if venturing high.
   • Snow gaiters or puttees (canvas/ nylon etc) are necessary for winter treks in the snow, they keep the snow out of your boots and if you are careful with river crossings on the way in, you may well manage to keep your feet dry and therefore much warmer. Some winter trampers use plastic bags over their socks inside their boots for added warmth in the snow.
   • A good ice axe and crampons will be needed for trips above the bushline. Don't be lured onto the open tops, no matter how easy it looks, without them or without being proficient in their use.
   • Bare legs should never be worn in the snow, and especially not above the bushline, no matter how gung-ho you feel. A minor slide in the snow with bare legs and hands can produce severe friction burns which are extremely painful and take weeks to heal.
   • In the Southern Alps and in heavy snow, avalanche transceivers and shovels should be carried by party members who should also be adept in their use.
   • A good pair of ski/glacier glasses are a great investment when venturing onto the tops, or in the valleys on a sunny winter day. Be aware that most sunglasses do not provide sufficient UV or glare protection at altitude.
   • A good sunblock like zinc creme should be used for long exposure to sun and snow.
   • Remember, too, that you eat more when cold, so your pack may well be heavier than during the summer months.
6. Camping. Surprisingly, with a four-season mountain tent, as opposed to a three-season tent, and a well-chosen campsite, winter camping above the bushline is one of the most enjoyable and exhilarating experiences. No noisy huts and messy benches, no hut fees, no drafts; and the view!
   • Take care in selecting a robust mountain tent that will shed snow easily and withstand the wind; tunnel or dome shapes are best.
   • Take care with the site. Is it too exposed? What if the wind gets up during the night? Is it at risk from avalanche? Is it flat? You may have to cut a bench in the snow. Can you retreat from this ridge/pass if the weather breaks during the night? Should we camp here at all?

   Finally, with due care and the gradual accumulation of experience, winter trips into the hills will provide you with some of the most unforgettable moments of your tramping career and together with the challenge of venturing where most would never go in winter, you will look back on these trips with great satisfaction.